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3 Finding a Building Plot

 

Types of Plot

Though building plots can be broadly characterised, in reality plots come with their own uniqueness, not only with their planning labels, but everything around them (and under) that will go a long way in determining what and how you can build.

In the sections below we’ve attempted to identify many of the labels and issues you will probably or possibly come across.

 

  • Plots that have already been developed, but are now redundant
  • Usually urban, but not always
  • Much favoured by Government
  • Buildings on the plot might or might not have been cleared
  • Services are usually easily available
  • Existing transport, easy cycling and walking make getting around easy.
  • The plots can often be of a difficult shape - requiring skilful design to realise their potential.

 

  • Plots that have not previously been developed. ‘Virgin’ land.
  • Usually rural, but not always
  • Rural plots usually imply car travel - increasing carbon footprint.
  • Generally resisted by Conservationists
  • But, housing pressure forces use of some Greenfield sites
  • Usually require initial ‘Change of Use’ planning permission
  • Check the Local Development Framework for land designation.
  • Servicing infrastructure usually needs installing first

 

  • Plots formed from gardens or land to the rear of existing houses
  • Vehicle access nearly always needed, sometimes difficult to squeeze in
  • Often resisted by neighbours to the plot
  • Services are usually easily available
  • Skilful design usually required to make best use of the plot
  • Not favoured by Government Planning Policy (see PPS 3 Planning policy statement 3: housing (4th edition))

 

  • Plots generated by demolishing existing buildings, often houses.
  • Of particular use in the countryside where existing houses can usually be replaced.
  • Look out for increasing the size of the new house over the old, it can be an issue with planners, so check with them first.
  • Reclaimable VAT on new-build often condemns existing buildings
  • Demolition can often create space for more than one house
  • In terms of energy used in construction, it is nearly always better to refurbish an existing building
  • Ensure that materials are salvaged from the demolition for reuse or recycling

 

  • Not an official designation, but can be described as ‘the infilling of a small gap within an otherwise built-up frontage or group of houses.’
  • Potential for building on depends on local planning. Check out the Local Authorities ‘Local Development Framework’ (LDF) or talk to a planning officer.
  • Not usually permitted in Conservation Areas or areas considered by the LA as of special character
  • Design of new buildings on infill plots can be made difficult by potential to affect neighbours (privacy, overshadowing etc.)
  • Vehicle access can sometimes be difficult.

 

  • These are plots that already set-up for self-builders.
  • Provided by Local Authorities or land developers
  • Will already have access road and necessary services installed
  • May have some design limitations.
Why there? It might sound obvious, but spend time considering where you want to build. Be certain about why you want to be in that area. Check that transport, jobs, access to schools shops and medical facilities will work for you. There might be alternatives that you can choose between - draw-up a list of pros and cons for each area. Sleep on it; Go on holiday, but don’t make your decision in a hurry!
  • Once you’ve identified a particular area, go out and get to know it. If you can, walk around - you see much much more on foot. Talk to people and if you see some land that might fit the bill, go and knock on a couple of doors and find out more.
  • Find out about the local climate conditions that might affect how and what you build. Is the area likely to be flooded now or in the future? The Environment Agency publishes an online assessment of future flood risks based on postcodes https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/long-term-flood-risk. Does it rain a lot or is the area windswept. How hot will the area get in the summer?
  • Estate agents are an invaluable resource. They can give you background on how the area is being developed as well as the likely direction of house prices. Make an appointment for a chat - they may know of plots that are coming up through word of mouth.

 

 

  • Under 2015 legislation your Local Authority is required to supply, when available, land to Self-Builders
  • Each LA keeps a Register of Self-Builders looking for land. When land becomes available, those registered are notified.
  • Land is sold at market value.
  • To Register with the Local Authority that represents the area you are looking to build in, you should use the form on the NACSBA (National Custom & Self-Build Association) at www.righttobuildportal.org/build-your-own-home/what-is-the-right-to-build/

 

 

 

  • If you’re an owner, a way of increasing the value of a house or land is to get Planning Permission for further development.
  • Often house and/or land owners go through the motions of getting planning permission only to add value to their sale - with no intention themselves to build.
  • An existing house might have land attached that could be sold-off and developed; or the house might be sold with planning permission for a further house on the land.
  • Local Authorities post Planning Applications made to them online. It’s worth studying the latest applications with a view to contacting the home or land owner looking to develop. They might just be looking for someone to buy.

 

  • Sunlight is the main environmental aspect determining the way your house will be designed. It can provide a significant proportion of annual space heating needs (but beware summer over-heating).
  • Find where the sun rises and sets. How much sunlight does the plot receive during the day?
  • If the plot is on the North slope of a valley/hill, it will receive little or no sun. Avoid these plots.
  • Do neighbouring buildings / trees cast shadows onto the plot? The issue will be more important in Winter when the sun is low and when your house will most benefit.
  • Deciduous trees can be used to reduce excess solar gain during the middle of the day in Summer - and then shed their leaves in Winter allowing sun penetration into the building. If you have trees lining the South side of the plot, your architect will be able to model how they will affect sunlight.
  • Will it be possible to build the house on an East-West axis to make the most use of solar gain?

 

  • Wind can be used for cooling in the Summer, but Northerly winds in the Winter can reduce outside temperatures significantly as well as induce cold air penetration into the house.
  • Barriers to, particularly, North/Northwestern winds can be found in trees/vegetation or neighbouring buildings.
  • In urban areas, wind is useful in dispersing air pollution.

 

  • Ask around the neighbourhood if the area is flooded.
  • Research future flooding potential by consulting the Environment Agency’s flood map at https://flood-warning-information.service.gov.uk/long-term-flood-risk. The long term prognosis is for increased flooding in the UK, so take notice of areas that though are not at risk at the moment, might be in the future by nature of their height above (or below) sea level or their proximity to rivers and streams.
  • Do not build your house in a flood plain. Don't.

 

  • Good natural drainage is a benefit. More so as winters become wetter. It is determined by the ground type: whether dominated by slow-draining clay or rapid-draining chalk soils. Check if there are slow-draining puddles on the site after rain.

 

  • If you’re looking at a ‘Brownfield’ plot, there might be an issue of soil contamination.
  • Chemicals used during previous building use might have leached into the ground.
  • Check on past use.
  • The Local Authority (LA) might have the contaminated land listed on a register.
  • If the land is suspected of being contaminated, the LA will require you to provide a report on the nature of the contamination in support of your planning application. This might include your detailing proposals for cleaning it up (‘remediation’).
  • It could be costly

 

  • The extent of the foundations of your house will be determined by the nature of the ground.
  • Foundation costs might vary according to foundation type
  • Check for guidance from the local Building Inspectors at the Local Authority
  • Costly, but if in doubt try for a test excavation with a Structural Engineer.
  • Foundations on sloping plots can be more expensive.

 

  • Building on a sloping site can provide both complications and opportunities.
  • Construction can be more complex - requiring stepping foundations and floor levels.
  • Light into and views from a South-facing slope can bring design benefits.
  • Don’t try and fit a standard house plan onto a sloping site.

 

  • If trees exist on the plot, be sure that you know if any are subject to a Tree Preservation Order (TPO). You should check with the Planners at the LA.
  • If sunlight is important to you, think about how you can build without destroying trees. Remember that deciduous trees shed their leaves in Winter - enabling the sun to shine through.
  • Tree roots can damage foundations. Beware when planning the siting of your house. Take advice from a Structural Engineer if in doubt about the distance of trees from the building.

 

  • Consider how you will be able to provide an access drive from the existing road.
  • In most cases it’s straightforward, needing only a cross-over to the highway.
  • However, there might be problems connecting to the highway owing to proximity to junctions and/or traffic site lines. Check with LA Highway Engineers / Planners

 

  • Electricity cables can be found running over or under plots. If they’re in the way of building, they can be costly to re-route.
  • Some people can get upset about the health effects of power cables - those wearing tin-foil hats will be dis-inclined from buying your house in the future.

 

  • Finding someone else’s drain running under your property is never an exciting discovery. Re-routing is usually costly.
  • If there is a mains routed through the plot, you won’t be able to build within 3m each side of the main.
  • Check with the local water authority about what happens beneath the plot.
  • Your plot purchasing contract should include a clause that makes the agreement subject to the ground being clear of mains, drainage and power lines.

 

  • If you’re building near the centre of an ancient town such as York or Colchester, someone is bound to find the remains of a Roman soldier or Medieval walls just where you want to build your home.
  • The Local Authority might request a report on potential archaeology on your site.
  • If something important is expected to be beneath your plot, you could be in for quite some delay and cost as the archaeologists take over.
  • Planners are guided by the principles set out in 'Planning Policy Statement 5: Planning and the Historic Environment'

 

  • Is the plot located under a flight path or next to a busy road? There’s a lot that building materials can do to reduce sound levels, but its best not to have the problem in the first place.
  • Consider vegetation as a way of buffering sound from nearby traffic.

 

  • Green Self-Builders will consider preserving or enhancing local bio-diversity
  • Survey the site for existing vegetation and any mammals, insects or birds that inhabit the site.
  • If you’re planning to grow your own food, is there enough room on the plot?

Do services (gas, electricity, & drainage) already exist?

  • Check that services are readily available.
  • Establish the cost of connecting up
  • If the Internet is important to you, make sure you have adequate access. This is particularly important if you work from home.

Will you have easy access to buses and trains?

  • Creating a sustainable environment includes making decisions about how to travel. Buses and trains consistently have the lower carbon footprint compared to cars.
  • Check on distances to the nearest bus stop / railway station.

How far will you have to drive regularly?

  • If you need to drive a car, ensure that your likely regular destinations are within easy reach.
  • If you don’t have to travel far, think about an electric car.

Are shops, schools and surgeries within easy reach?

  • Physical shopping should not be an ordeal. Ensure you can readily buy the food you like within easy reach.
  • Getting kids to school and back is notoriously stress inducing. Finding a school within walking distance will contribute to an easier family life.
  • 2 types of permission (see below
  • Outline permission - the minimum, it provides permission in principle.
  • Full permission - provides complete permission for specific design.
  • No permission - means that you still need to get it. Uncertainty of success.
  • Though not permission to go ahead and start building, Outline Planning Permission is still very useful. The permission establishes the principle that a house of a given size can be built on the land.
  • You will still have to apply for Full Planning Permission, but Outline is a good indication of how likely a Full application will fare.
  • Outline Permission is time limited to 5 years which includes 3 years to provide further details for Full Planning and a further 2 years to start the works - so check on the run-out date.
  • All the work has been done for a plot on the market with Full Planning Permission. There is little risk involved in taking over the permission and proceeding with remaining work needed to bring the building into fruition. However, the design of the house will not necessarily to be to your liking or will fulfil your needs.
  • If taking-over a design, beware that the copyright for it will not be yours. It will belong to the original designer who you should contact.
  • If your proposed design for the plot varies from the one with Full Planning Permission, you will need to make a renewed application for Full Planning.
  • Full Planning Permission is time limited to a period of 3 years within which works should be started.
  • Buying a plot without any sort of planning permission is not advised for most self-builders.
  • You can apply for permission, having informed the owner, whilst not actually owning the site. Getting permission though, will increase the site value, which you will be then expected to pay if you proceed to purchase the plot.
  • Whatever the planning status of the plot, it is still wise to do background research.
  • Is there a planning history? If so details can be found in the archives of the Local Authority.
  • If the plot hasn’t got a current planning permission, it might have done in the past. Equally it might not, but applications for permission might have been made but turned down for specific reasons.
  • Reading through the files and noting planning issues or concerns will help give you a steer regarding your own application and how it will be likely received.
  • If you need further information, ask one of the planners if any exists.
  • Nearly Planning Permission has attached a list of conditions that require discharging as part of the Permission.
  • Conditions require approval of certain aspects of your building, such as materials to be used, before you can carry out the construction work.
  • Getting legal advice from a Solicitor specialising in land purchase is highly advisable. They will consider the paperwork and highlight any issues.
  • Consulting an Architect before buying land will help you assess the plot for its development potential.
  • If Planning issues become too complicated or overwhelming, talk to a Planning Advisor. A lot of advisors are themselves retired or otherwise ex-planners. They will know the ropes and help steer you through planning minefields.
  • Your search will generate a considerable amount of information and we suggest setting up a spreadsheet before getting started. It not only keeps things organised but also allows you to revisit and compare plot information quickly and easily. Use colour filling to identify plots that have been ruled out/sold or made it onto your shortlist.
    You could include the following columns in your spreadsheet:
  • Plot name.
  • Address.
  • Date found/on the market.
  • Size.
  • Description.
  • Planning permission status.
  • Selling agent and their contact details.
  • Links to the property details (Cut and Paste the URL into your spreadsheet. The details are then just a click away).
  • Links to a Google Map of the location.
  • Other notes.